Quick answerBreaker off, verify dead with a tester, swap wires one at a time to the matching terminals (brass = hot, silver = neutral, green = ground), and push everything back in. If the outlet is near a sink, upgrade to a GFCI while you're at it.
What you'll need
- New outlet: standard duplex ($3–$6) or GFCI ($15–$25)
- Non-contact voltage tester
- Outlet tester / plug-in tester ($8–$12, optional but useful)
- Screwdrivers
- Wire strippers
- Electrical tape
Step-by-step
- Turn off the breaker. Flip the breaker for that outlet to OFF — at the breaker panel, or the consumer unit in the UK. Plug a lamp into the outlet first: if it goes dark when you flip the breaker, you've got the right one. Then verify with your non-contact tester.
- Remove the old outlet. Unscrew the cover plate, then the mounting screws. Pull the outlet out gently. Take a photo of the wiring before you disconnect anything.
- Disconnect the old outlet. Loosen the terminal screws and free the wires. Standard US wiring: black (hot) to brass screws, white (neutral) to silver screws, bare copper or green to the green ground screw. If wires are pushed into back-stab holes instead of wrapped on screws, pull them out — and don't use back-stabs on the new outlet; screws hold far better.
- Inspect what you found. If you see aluminum wiring, scorched insulation, or a box with no ground wire, stop here and call an electrician. Also check: is this outlet near a sink, outdoors, or in a garage? If so, it should be a GFCI — and if it isn't, now's the time.
- Wire the new outlet. Move wires one at a time to the matching terminals. For a standard outlet: black to brass, white to silver, ground to green. Wrap the wire clockwise around the screw so tightening pulls it in, not pushes it out. For a GFCI: follow its LINE vs LOAD markings exactly — the incoming power goes to LINE, and any downstream outlets you're protecting go to LOAD. Getting this backwards is the classic GFCI mistake.
- Secure and mount. Wrap electrical tape around the outlet body over the terminals, fold wires neatly into the box, and screw the outlet in. Don't overtighten — cracked boxes are a pain.
- Test everything. Breaker on. Plug in your outlet tester or a lamp. For a GFCI, press the TEST button (it should trip with a click) then RESET. If the tester shows correct wiring and the GFCI trips and resets, you're done.
<div class="safety"> <strong>🛑 Stop and call a pro if:</strong> <ul> <li>Aluminum wiring, cloth insulation, or no ground wire in the box.</li> <li>Burn marks, melted plastic, or a burning smell — potential fire damage in the wall.</li> <li>The outlet box is loose in the wall or the wires are too short to work with safely.</li> <li>You're replacing an outlet in a kitchen or bathroom and the circuit isn't GFCI-protected anywhere — an electrician should verify the whole circuit.</li> <li>You feel any tingling or get a shock from an outlet or switch — stop immediately, that's an electric shock risk.</li> </ul> </div>
DIY vs pro cost
| Option | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| DIY | $5–$25 (GFCI costs more than standard) |
| Pro visit | $100–$175 per outlet (less per outlet if bundling several) |
Printable checklist
- [ ] Breaker OFF, lamp confirms it's the right circuit
- [ ] Voltage tester confirms dead wires
- [ ] Photo of original wiring taken
- [ ] No back-stab connections on the new outlet — screws only
- [ ] GFCI LINE/LOAD wired correctly (if applicable)
- [ ] Tape wrapped around outlet body
- [ ] Breaker on, outlet tester shows correct wiring
- [ ] GFCI test/reset buttons work (if applicable)
Related guides
- How to Replace a Light Switch Safely (Step-by-Step)
- How to Install a Dimmer Switch (30-Minute Guide)
- Lights Flickering in House? 7 Causes and How to Fix Them
Frequently asked questions
Should I replace all my outlets with GFCI?
No — you only need GFCI protection where water is nearby: kitchens, bathrooms, laundry, garage, outdoors. One GFCI can protect downstream outlets on the same circuit, so you often only need one per circuit, not one per outlet.
What's the difference between a $3 outlet and a $15 outlet?
Mostly build quality — the cheap ones use thinner metal contacts that loosen over time, which is why old outlets stop gripping plugs. A mid-range spec-grade outlet ($6–$10) holds plugs snugly for years. For high-use spots, it's worth the few extra dollars.
My outlet has two black and two white wires. Which goes where?
That's normal — power comes in on one pair and continues to the next outlet on the other. Both blacks go to brass (one per screw, or pigtailed together), both whites to silver. Take your photo before disconnecting and replicate it.
Can I install a USB outlet instead?
Yes, USB combo outlets wire exactly like standard outlets and are a nice upgrade for bedrooms and kitchens. Just make sure the box is deep enough — they're bulkier than regular outlets.
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