Quick answerUnscrew the old showerhead, clean the threads on the shower arm, wrap them with Teflon tape, and thread the new head on hand-tight. No need to shut off the water. The whole job takes about 15 minutes and instantly upgrades the cheapest-feeling part of most bathrooms.
What you'll need
- New showerhead ($15–$60 — pick your spray style; most use the standard ½-inch fitting)
- Adjustable wrench
- Teflon tape / PTFE thread tape ($2–$3)
- Soft cloth or rag (to protect the finish from the wrench)
- White vinegar (for cleaning the shower arm threads)
Step-by-step
- Remove the old showerhead. Grip the shower arm (the pipe coming out of the wall) with one hand to keep it from turning, and twist the old head counterclockwise. If it's stuck, wrap a cloth around the fitting and use the wrench — the cloth keeps the wrench from chewing up the finish.
- Clean the shower arm threads. Wipe off old Teflon tape, gunk, and mineral crust. A quick wipe with vinegar on a rag dissolves scale. You want clean threads for the new tape to seal against.
- Wrap with Teflon tape. Hold the tape and wrap clockwise around the threads (clockwise as you look at the end of the pipe) 4–5 times. Wrapping in the direction the head screws on keeps the tape from bunching up as you thread it.
- Thread the new head on by hand. Start it carefully by hand to avoid cross-threading — it should spin on smoothly for several turns. If it binds immediately, back it off and restart straight.
- Snug it with the wrench. Once hand-tight, give it about a quarter turn more with the wrench (cloth in between). That's it. Plastic threads crack easily, so resist the urge to crank it down.
- Run the water and check for leaks. Turn the shower on full and look at the connection. A slow drip means it needs a touch more tightening or another wrap of tape — take it off and redo the tape rather than forcing it tighter.
- Aim and adjust. Most new heads pivot on a ball joint. Set the spray pattern you like and check the flow. If your area has low-flow regulations, leave the built-in flow restrictor alone — removing it voids the warranty and may violate local codes.
<div class="safety"> <strong>🛑 Stop and call a pro if:</strong> <ul> <li>The shower arm itself is corroded and starts turning or cracking as you work — a broken arm inside the wall means opening things up.</li> <li>Water leaks from inside the wall around the shower arm, not from the threaded connection — that's a fitting problem behind the tile.</li> <li>The shower arm snaps off in the wall — don't try to dig the broken stub out with the wrong tools; a plumber has the extractor for it.</li> </ul> </div>
DIY vs pro cost
| Option | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| DIY | $17–$63 |
| Pro visit | $100–$200 |
Paying a plumber's minimum call-out to twist on a showerhead is hard to justify. Spend the money on a nicer showerhead instead.
Printable checklist
- [ ] Old showerhead removed (shower arm held steady)
- [ ] Threads cleaned of old tape and mineral crust
- [ ] Teflon tape wrapped clockwise, 4–5 turns
- [ ] New head started by hand — no cross-threading
- [ ] Snugged a quarter turn past hand-tight (not cranked)
- [ ] Full-flow leak check at the connection
- [ ] Spray pattern and aim adjusted
Related guides
- How to Fix a Leaky Outdoor Faucet (Hose Bib)
- How to Remove Hard Water Stains (Glass, Faucets, Toilets)
- How to Fix Low Water Pressure in Your House
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to turn off the water to replace a showerhead?
No. The shower valve controls the water, and it's off while you work. The shower arm only carries water when the shower is running. Just make sure the shower valve is fully off before you start.
Will a new showerhead increase my water pressure?
Not really — pressure comes from your home's supply. But a new head with a better spray pattern can feel much stronger, and replacing a scale-clogged old head often restores flow you didn't know you'd lost.
Which way do I wrap Teflon tape?
Clockwise as you look at the threaded end of the pipe — the same direction the showerhead screws on. That way tightening the head pulls the tape tighter instead of unwinding it.
The connection drips even though it's tight — what now?
Take the head off and re-wrap the tape; a drip almost always means the tape bunched or there's a gap in coverage, not that it needs more force. Check the rubber washer inside the showerhead too — a cracked or missing washer won't seal no matter how tight you go.
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